Ball Python Caresheet

Choosing a Ball Python
When choosing a Ball Python as a pet, it is often better to select a hatchling over an adult, unless you know for sure that the snake was not imported. Hatchlings, which will measure approximately 15-18 inches in length, will adjust much better to a life of captivity. Wild Caught adults or sub-adults, however, usually do not fare as well, and can become aggressive, refuse to eat, and, ultimately, will most likely perish.

Housing
Most hatchlings will do well in a small (10-20 gallon) aquarium, or medium-sized clear plastic sweater box enclosure, provided it is well ventilated. Since they are generally secretive creatures, at least one hide box must be provided (two or more is best if the size of their cage will allow it). Hide boxes can consist of anything from an overturned shoebox or Tupperware container to the readily available (although sometimes expensive) commercial Reptile Hides.

Keep in mind, though, that as your snake grows, so must his enclosure. Adults of average size will thrive in a 30 gallon aquarium or larger. Another factor to take into consideration is your snake’s substrate. Some keepers prefer to use ReptiBark® or Cage Carpet, although there are many more economical and practical choices, such as paper towels or newspaper.

Ball Pythons prefer a warm and somewhat humid environment, so an under tank heating pad or basking lamp is also necessary. If you are using a basking lamp, it is best to accompany its use with a small thermostat, available for a few dollars at any hardware store. A temperature of 85-88 degrees on the warm side of the tank is ideal. Low humidity will cause stress and incomplete sheds in your Ball Python, so an ambient humidity of no less than 60% is required. Simply misting the cage lightly every other day can attain this level. It is also recommended that you provide a "humid box" for your snake. This is simply a regular hide box with some damp paper towels or vermiculite. It is also necessary to provide a heavy water dish, as many Ball Pythons seem to take great delight in overturning and spilling the contents of their bowls.

Feeding
Ball Pythons have gained a reputation within the pet trade of being notoriously finicky eaters. While this can definitely be the case sometimes, it is by no means the norm, and with a little time and patience, your Ball Python will quickly learn to accept his meals regularly.

Hatchlings are usually started off on pinky or fuzzy mice, though, with regular feeding, quickly graduate to adult mice or small rats. It is best to feed your snake frozen/thawed rodents from the start, to avoid any problems down the road. In the wild, a Ball Python’s diet consists mainly of gerbils, so, if you have a particularly finicky Wild Caught specimen, a gerbil may very well entice him to eat. The general "rule of thumb" when feeding Ball Pythons (and, indeed, for any snake!) is to feed him a prey item that is not much bigger in girth than the snake itself. This will maintain a healthy snake, while keeping his growth rate at a more natural level. Some keepers, however, prefer to feed their snakes larger meals to promote growth. This is fine, as long as the prey item is no bigger than twice the diameter of the snake’s head. Weekly feedings are ideal for young snakes, though older snakes may refuse such frequent meals, especially in the colder months, when your snake would normally be fasting to prepare for the breeding season.

Common Health Problems
As easy as Ball Pythons are to care for, they are unfortunately not devoid of health problems. All snakes are very susceptible to snake mites, and this problem can be very frustrating and can easily get out of hand. Thankfully, there are several treatments available, either online or via your local pet supply store. All snakes are equally as susceptible to internal parasites. It is always a good idea to have all new snakes checked by a vet before entering them into your collection, for these parasites are easily spread and detrimental to the affected snake’s health.

Due to their shy nature, Ball Pythons are naturally prone to stress-related illnesses, such as respiratory infections and anorexia. If you notice your snake wheezing, or see any excess saliva around your snake’s mouth, this is most likely a respiratory infection. These can be treated at home if caught early enough, but a novice keeper is advised to take the snake to the vet right away.

All things considered, Ball Pythons are a fascinating and rewarding species, and have a great deal to offer to the Novice and Experienced Keeper alike.

This Caresheet is a contribution made by Flannery Scroggins (scrogginsf@yahoo.com)